Supper at Ceia in Lisbon

Many years ago, when we were leaving full-time work, a good friend and the CEO of one of the companies for which I worked gave us a going-away gift: a supper at Ceia. A friend and former customer of his had just visited Lisbon and had raved about it. We made plans to go, but then COVID hit.

Last weekend, we finally made it.

Ceia means “supper” in Portuguese. The building is non-descript (check the small directory outside the door, and you’ll see Ceia discretely identified so you know you’ve arrived), the dining experience is unique. There is one table which seats up to 14 guests which provides for an intimate fine dining experience and bonding process with your fellow diners. Dinner begins with a welcome drink and socialization in the foyer, which also serves as the lobby of the small 6-room hotel they operate above. Here, you mingle and get to meet your fellow guests. Our group was incredibly international. We were joined by a couple from Australia on a hiatus from work traveling around Europe, a Portuguese woman from Alcaçer do Sal and German man from Berlin who live in Sintra and forage for mushrooms (Sintra being quite wet is a perfect place for someone with such interests), a young couple who recently moved to Lisbon from the UK. He is British and she is from northwest France. And, finally, a family from Paris the man being from Vietnam and the woman from the south of France. Needless to say, we spent ample time discussing world travel and tips for visiting all of these areas.

After all the guests arrive (you are asked to arrive at 7:30), we were ushered into a small dining room where we sat around the table in a softly lit room. They seat each couple across from one another, which helps inspire socialization outside of your own party. The courses come with a beverage pairing with both wine and non-alcoholic pairings as options.

The food is gourmet. We had several appetizer courses, a couple of mains and a few desserts. For example, we started with a rose petal dumpling filled with shrimp, homemade bread (with a beef broth dipping sauce) and brioche, moved on to a plate of hamachi tuna and a soup with seaweed, a squid taco wrapped in a leaf, bacalhau (salted cod) with a liver risotto, and then we finished with hearts of tomato and strawberry in a basil broth with mint ice cream and a decadent fried mushroom and chocolate dessert with ice cream.

Each course is explained by one of the several chefs who prepare your meal. You learn about the ingredients, how they are prepared and from where they are sourced and about the beverage pairing. In advance, when you reserve, you are asked about allergies or food intolerances, and substitutions are made as needed.

The non-alcoholic options are carefully crafted and mixed to match each course and the sommelier chooses Portuguese wines to pair as well. Much of the ingredients (both animal and vegetable) are sourced from Ceia’s farm in the Alentejo region of Portugal.

It was a truly unique experience, and as we wandered home through the quieting streets of Alfama after midnight we wondered why it had taken us so long to finally go.